Saturday, March 28, 2015

The driest wines can be expected in Sercial varieties usually grown at higher altitudes, the result


Madeira and sherry have in common is an unpleasant issue - their names denote certain manifestations, when the wine is not where degenerates (madeirizace, sherried, both often incorrectly used for various forms of oxidation of wine and baked manifestations). But if this "degeneration" controlled on the basis of the right wine for a sufficiently long period of time, then ... mmmmmm ...:-) I originally wanted to pursue this now for about nejopomíjenějšímu (unfortunately I have to say that right) of the classic fortifikátů, Marsala, but last week he made a pleasant trip to Brno tasting Madeira and odrhnu notes before her. Madeira is obviously more famous, perhaps because of the island as a major tourist the lensbury destination, and although the lensbury she went through a lot of problems and style wines for centuries elapsed significantly changed, it still has a lot to offer.
If we say that the classic sherry revolves around the solera system and differences between oxidative and biological (under Flora) maturation, the crucial point at Madeira the lensbury is a process called "estufagem" warm wine while exposed to air to accelerate the maturation and achieve the lensbury specific expression ( but this is actually just trying to emulate what previously happened with wine during the lensbury the long journey across the sea and through the equator in tropical areas). After several disasters in the nineteenth century - mildew, powdery mildew and phylloxera eventually (because that is the island today and a bunch of hybrid varieties or even American vines, the lensbury resulting in wines technically illegal, but ...), all together with the decline of interest due to Prohibition in the USA or Revolution in Russia, the face of Madeira wine changed - shrunk producers (some names on the market the lensbury today are actually brand already one of the big producers, independent producers are the only units, although the grapes supplies several thousand growers), plantings, and turned the varietal composition and gradually came to a bunch of new techniques. Today Madeira can be anything the lensbury from a wine from fully fermented cider fertile red varieties Tinta Negra Mole heated three months to a high of 55 C in a huge concrete or stainless steel tanks (Calor de Cuba), then dolihovaného, more or less doslazeného, přibarveného caramel and quickly on the market, but after nedoslazené fortified wine from grape Sercial, naturally heated only by the sun in oak barrels (Canteiro), where is still many decades. On the one hand you have a somewhat stubborn simple wine more suitable for the preparation of certain foods, on the other hand, this wine can be large, complex and almost immortal. Most customers also meets in the glass rather with different levels of the first category, and it is a great pity.
If on the label does not contain any of the four noble varieties and Madeira or any other specific term, so a maximum level of sweetness (seco, the lensbury meio seco, meio doce, doce) or any of uncontrolled expressions (full, dark, rich, and so on, mostly English) , then it is a wine prepared primarily from Tinta Negra Mole and trained only briefly, prepared in bulk. For expression Finest regards blend of maturation and is typically three years without contact with wood. Reserve matures five years, may be a mixture of tanks and wood. Another quality levels the lensbury are reserved for wines of noble varieties, respectively. wherein the mixtures consist of at least 85%. Special Reserve is already ten years of aging, respectively. the youngest component mixtures ten (can be used as solera system), they usually goes hand in hand with the maturation of the only naturally without artificial heating. Extra Reserve is the same thing 15 years. But not all it holds, and there are variations. Vintage / Frasqueira Madeira is one year, maturing at least twenty years (in the case of vintage and expression Colheita terms of coursework Madeira, but the maturation of less than twenty years) in the wood and then at least two years before being sold in a bottle. Some wines are after long aging in wood to glass carboys, from which subsequently bottled (ie. Can be eg. The year 1960 20+ years of maturation in casks, then twisted into the carboy, but need to sell bottling in 2010).
The driest wines can be expected in Sercial varieties usually grown at higher altitudes, the resulting wines tend to have a low alcohol are astringent, hard, after the fortification simply ideal for very long aging in barrels, which can be complicated, almond nut, spectacular wines. Verdelho is also grown at higher altitudes, the lensbury but matures even better preserved with acid, the results tend to be left as a semi-dry wine, ascribed smoky character. Boal grown more in the warmer parts of the island, matures into higher sugar content and wines tend to be sweeter, darker, raisin, the lensbury rich and perfectly mature. Malmsey Malvasia aka the traditional variety to produce sweeter, more concentrated wines with excellent aromatics, grown in warmer locations. the lensbury After a long maturation but the results are not usually tired, Malvasia and holds acids, and perfectly mature for many years in wood and then hold the bottle.
An interesting tasting Madeira committed underground Brno Pavillon restaurant Petr Zahnáš, jointly with another participant the lensbury before

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