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Jean-Jacques Asper has got off to a mountaineering skills masterpiece during Swiss Everest expedition in 1952. His conclusion from days at high altitude gastro norm without eating and drinking: "The human resilience is incredible." By Roger Koeppel and Hans Peter Born
We were a group of fellow climbers in Geneva - I was the youngest, and among us there was a very energetic leader, René Dittert, who had been in 1947 and 1949 in the Himalayas and who suggested us an expedition. Dittert went to the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research in Zurich to present his project. We proposed a summit as a destination, the name was. . ., As was the name again? - I am 86 years old and my memory can by - yes, Cho Oyu. We needed financial support and permission of the authorities for our expedition. Dittert told the person in charge of the foundation that we are really excellent climbers, and gave them all of our references. The President of the Foundation, Mr. Paul Weber [avid mountaineer, director and co-owner of the EPA's New department gastro norm store AG], said: "This is very interesting, but I want you to suggest something else: Do not you want to go to Everest" He had permission gastro norm obtained for a Swiss Everest expedition. We were of course happy, but had to make great preparations.
Everyone had a different task. There were many things to do: Obtain the Proviants, preparation of equipment for us and the Sherpas etc. We had about one and a half months to get everything done.
(Laughs) gastro norm No, not that! Bush fruits, dried fruits and something that was said Penican, a fish paste, which was very energetic and could dissolve in water: She was dégueulasse, awful.
The clothes at that time was also very modest. They had a cotton gastro norm undershirt, a shirt made of wool, a wool sweater and a down wind jacket. The problem was that sweaty cotton wool and dry very slowly, in contrast to the synthetic material, which is used today.
We had "Tibetan Alpine gastro norm Boots, which had been prepared for us by Bally. They owned an inner shoe that you could put together and gave the foot a good grip, and an outer shoe outward directed reindeer fur. These shoes ranged up to the knee, well protected from the cold. First quality gastro norm for that time.
As for the oxygen, we had consulted the British and the Germans, who had classical gastro norm oxygen bottles. But these devices weighed gastro norm fourteen kilograms. We said: "We can never wear." Now a professor in Bern had developed gastro norm an oxygen apparatus, which weighed gastro norm only about two pounds and had imitated the oxygen equipment that had been used by the American Forces gastro norm in World War II. But this device had been delivered at the last moment, and we no longer had the opportunity to test it in the Alps. But if you're at 8000 meters altitude, then gasps one, and runs the "pump". It blew into a tube, and the apparatus did a chemical reaction that releases oxygen. The rapid breathing at high altitude left then collapse the whole system. We could not use the appliance and have it, I think, thrown away. I spent three days and two nights at 8000 meters altitude without supplemental gastro norm oxygen.
Messner and many others stayed a month 6000 meters altitude to acclimatise. They made some small tours at 7000 meters, and her body was used to the altitude. Then they got to the summit.
We flew in two groups of Geneva on March 13. I went with three colleagues to Bombay to pick up the pre-sent by ship luggage. In Bombay, the tax collectors went on strike, and despite a good baksheesh we lost ten days. From Bombay gastro norm to Patna in North India, we traveled by train for three days with several tons of luggage. It was extraordinary. One traveled with monkeys and other T
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